The last month of my life has been spent in Indonesia, surfing , travelling, partying and searching for adventures outside of those on offer in Norn Iron. 6 flights and countless boat journeys later im back in Bangor facing a summer of poor weather and familiar faces although im not upset about it, im actually quite excited. Ive missed out on the summer in Bangor the last few years now and although its not on power weatherwise, there is still something special I think about summers here.
Travelling in Indonesia has been my ambition for the last year and just like Africa , Australia/New Zealand, America/Hawaii as soon as the trip came to an end I could feel my desire to travel grow again. One thing ive learn't in my limited travel experience is that when you fulfill a travel desire it opens up a void leaving you even more desperate to travel. Im not sure why it is, I mean before I went I listed reasons why I love travelling but the inherent desire and almost addictive nature of it is something that continues to strike me as nonsense.It seems one can never fulfill the desire to travel. I think of Ran Fiennes here, he is well into his 60,s yet still has the desire to explore and achieve new ambitions, I wander If I will have that desire when Im older.
One thing which struck me on this trip in particular was the how the world is a small place and is rapidly becoming spoiled. Travelling in places like Ozz, NZ, South East Asia etc it is almost impossible to get of the beaten track. When you see a local working in the rice fields instead of selling tourists stuff it is usually a pretty good indicator but it seems harder and harder to find. For the times in Indo when I got away from the crowds and saw the culture I am glad. For the times when the locals snubbed me and were racist to me , I am glad as I wanted to see the culture and I was fortunate enough to see it.
Indonesia filled a hole for me, although as I mentioned it opened up ten more which now need filled. When I look back on a trip I measure it usually by the people Ive met , the culture ive experienced and my desire to travel again afterwards. This one seems to have fulfilled all of those. Travel is about highs and lows, and I can say that I most definently experienced highs and lows heres, I think the extremity of these rates the type of trip you,ve had and in this case it reached both extremes.
Indonesia gave me what I wanted and more. There are things I will remember forever from this trip , there are things I will wander for ever....in fact if anyone has an answer to the following question please tell me...OK in Indonesia when one goes into the toilet there is NO toilet roll. Akk you will find is a bucket of water to flush but also a pitcher. Now people have suggested that locals fill this pitcher with water and throw it at there backside. This is surely nonsense as in which case they would be completely soaked and never have I seen a local anything but dry when leaving the bathroom. This to me and every westerner I have met is a mystery. There is simply no solutions bar they use their hands and I refuse to beleive this, so if anyone knows please enlighten me.
Anyway to all those who made my trip better, thankyou. To all those who I will meet on my next trip I look forward to meeting you. For better or worse this trip is one to remember and truely was the Odyssey I was looking for.
Friday 10 July 2009
Monday 6 July 2009
Surfing, spider bites, monkeys and Mario karts.
After our hellish bus journey we arrived in good old Kuta, the sespit of Indonesia. En route to Poppies, we met Rob randomly which worked out well. It was a nightmare finding accomo but we all branched out and with the help of some locals scooter we managed. That night we all had food at mcdonalds then the rest headed out. I was whipped so hit the hay relativley early.
The next day we lay by the pool for a while. Jarod stayed in Kuta as it was the 4th of July and we all wanted to celebrate. Some suggested watching independance day but due to our lack of dvd player we decided to use American lingo as a substitute, that lasted all of ten mins. In the afternoon James and I had a surf. Probably our best surf in Indonesia I would think. The waves were big enough to keep beginners out of the water but not to big to make the paddle out too taxing. James and I both caught some nice waves. The problem with Kuta beach breaks is the same problem with all sand bottom breaks. One they are busy, two it is unpredictable where the line up is and three they close out really quick. However the good thing about Kuta beach like most beaches is on a medium/big day because the waves breaks so fast it walls up really quickly and gives you a split second in the barrel even if you dont make it out again. For a novice surfer like myself even the feeling of seeing the wave break on top of you is enough even if I dont make it out again.
We both caught some nice ones but I was particularly stoked with one wave. Although we were both outside the line up a larger set came through and no one was near it so it gave me full right of way. I paddled, dropped in, it was pretty steep and was going left so I opted for the old crouch and hold where u stay low pull the rail towards you and lean into the wave. Usually I mess it up but this time it worked pretty well. The wave walled up as usuall and started to break over me although I didnt wipe out as usuall. Tore along the front for a while untill the wave started to break in front of me and I pulled out.
Its always hard to judge a wave but I would say this is probably the closest I have been to a barrell and like James or any surfer says, once you've had a good one its very hard to stop. I am fully aware of this as many occasions I do the 200 mile round trip to Portrush, surf terribly although catch one gem and am suckered into going another time. It truley is the sport of addicts.
Anyhow that night we all went out to celebrate the 4th of July. After surfing all day I was stociously tired and struggled to put on a brave face ut as it was Robbs last night and the 4th of July I tried, even when we ended up taking our shirts of as it was stupidly hot.I left early at arouns 2.30 although the others stayed till like 5 or something daft.
The next few days we spent surfing Kuta beach. The next day James and I were having our usuall sunset surf when the unthinkable happened, worse than any shark attack imaginable! A spider bite! Not a black widow, not a huntsman , worse! A Spider Murphy ,6 ft 8 South African gun. The worst type of bite! James had come of a wave and was paddling in. I had just caught one and was heading towards him and when he ducked the collision happened. I at first thought I was a least a metre from him but then he showed me his knee which was sliced open so you could see the fatty tissue. It probably needed stiches and no doubt any local tiger sharks would taste the blood, but in fairness James manned up and we carried on surfing. Fortunatley with the help of Jarodds paper stichets and iodine we got it sorted.
We had some great surfs ove the last few days but unfortunatley the waves died down and we were left with nothing much else to do, enter lonley planet guide for Bali and Lombok!
We decided to drive to Ubud, the cultural centre of Bali. We hired a jeep/car for 125000 ruppiah and I was assigned to drive. I actually vounteered. I know how bad the roads are here and if we were to drive on them I felt slighty more at ease having control. Anyway we headed on our way. Storming out of Poppies onto into the hustle of Kuta.
For anyone who hasnt yet drove in Bali, it literally is like Mario Kart, or maybe even more like wacky races. Anyone 23or over will remember wacky races. I think it was on Nickelodeon but basically ten or so characters would race using different methods to get ahead of their opponents although no matter what thet would do they would always be caught again. Sitting at the traffic lights leaving Kuta with around 30 mo peds around me with one or two cars and lorries in no particular lane it really felt like wacky races!
Anyway despite some sketchy directions we made it to Ubud. We had lunch adjacent to the paddy fields which was nice then went to a european backery which was actually v good but quite expensive. The monkey forest itself was impressive. It was actually set around ancient ruins and thus with the monkeys running around it was actually not disimilar to the part in the jungle book where the monkey sings 'im the king of the swingers'. So of course we sang it as we walked. Entering the forest one could purchase bananas to feed the monkeys. Some jackass american who obviously was an expert in this field told me how much better it was to feed the monkeys. One of my pet hates is when people who really have no interest in wildlife etc, go to a wildlife park become totally enthrawlled and begin to act like Steve Irwin. I have watched a million docu' about monkeys but it was enough to simply walk through and watch. It annoyed me that japanese tourists held out cigarretts to the monkeys and that for all intents and purposes the monkeys were not wild at all but due to the flocks of tourist and poor controll of them the nature and beuty of the forest had been spoiled. Realizing that the monkeys were tame the did play with us a little and one even jumped on Kim's head which was fun but although it was exciting I still feel it had been turned into a zoo.
We drove back stopping at surf outlets on the way, we were going to go to uluwatu but it got dark to soon. Now we are back in Kuta for our last day. I guess its gonna be a beach day along with buying souveneers and sorting our flights, my favourite sort of day...not! Here goes!
The next day we lay by the pool for a while. Jarod stayed in Kuta as it was the 4th of July and we all wanted to celebrate. Some suggested watching independance day but due to our lack of dvd player we decided to use American lingo as a substitute, that lasted all of ten mins. In the afternoon James and I had a surf. Probably our best surf in Indonesia I would think. The waves were big enough to keep beginners out of the water but not to big to make the paddle out too taxing. James and I both caught some nice waves. The problem with Kuta beach breaks is the same problem with all sand bottom breaks. One they are busy, two it is unpredictable where the line up is and three they close out really quick. However the good thing about Kuta beach like most beaches is on a medium/big day because the waves breaks so fast it walls up really quickly and gives you a split second in the barrel even if you dont make it out again. For a novice surfer like myself even the feeling of seeing the wave break on top of you is enough even if I dont make it out again.
We both caught some nice ones but I was particularly stoked with one wave. Although we were both outside the line up a larger set came through and no one was near it so it gave me full right of way. I paddled, dropped in, it was pretty steep and was going left so I opted for the old crouch and hold where u stay low pull the rail towards you and lean into the wave. Usually I mess it up but this time it worked pretty well. The wave walled up as usuall and started to break over me although I didnt wipe out as usuall. Tore along the front for a while untill the wave started to break in front of me and I pulled out.
Its always hard to judge a wave but I would say this is probably the closest I have been to a barrell and like James or any surfer says, once you've had a good one its very hard to stop. I am fully aware of this as many occasions I do the 200 mile round trip to Portrush, surf terribly although catch one gem and am suckered into going another time. It truley is the sport of addicts.
Anyhow that night we all went out to celebrate the 4th of July. After surfing all day I was stociously tired and struggled to put on a brave face ut as it was Robbs last night and the 4th of July I tried, even when we ended up taking our shirts of as it was stupidly hot.I left early at arouns 2.30 although the others stayed till like 5 or something daft.
The next few days we spent surfing Kuta beach. The next day James and I were having our usuall sunset surf when the unthinkable happened, worse than any shark attack imaginable! A spider bite! Not a black widow, not a huntsman , worse! A Spider Murphy ,6 ft 8 South African gun. The worst type of bite! James had come of a wave and was paddling in. I had just caught one and was heading towards him and when he ducked the collision happened. I at first thought I was a least a metre from him but then he showed me his knee which was sliced open so you could see the fatty tissue. It probably needed stiches and no doubt any local tiger sharks would taste the blood, but in fairness James manned up and we carried on surfing. Fortunatley with the help of Jarodds paper stichets and iodine we got it sorted.
We had some great surfs ove the last few days but unfortunatley the waves died down and we were left with nothing much else to do, enter lonley planet guide for Bali and Lombok!
We decided to drive to Ubud, the cultural centre of Bali. We hired a jeep/car for 125000 ruppiah and I was assigned to drive. I actually vounteered. I know how bad the roads are here and if we were to drive on them I felt slighty more at ease having control. Anyway we headed on our way. Storming out of Poppies onto into the hustle of Kuta.
For anyone who hasnt yet drove in Bali, it literally is like Mario Kart, or maybe even more like wacky races. Anyone 23or over will remember wacky races. I think it was on Nickelodeon but basically ten or so characters would race using different methods to get ahead of their opponents although no matter what thet would do they would always be caught again. Sitting at the traffic lights leaving Kuta with around 30 mo peds around me with one or two cars and lorries in no particular lane it really felt like wacky races!
Anyway despite some sketchy directions we made it to Ubud. We had lunch adjacent to the paddy fields which was nice then went to a european backery which was actually v good but quite expensive. The monkey forest itself was impressive. It was actually set around ancient ruins and thus with the monkeys running around it was actually not disimilar to the part in the jungle book where the monkey sings 'im the king of the swingers'. So of course we sang it as we walked. Entering the forest one could purchase bananas to feed the monkeys. Some jackass american who obviously was an expert in this field told me how much better it was to feed the monkeys. One of my pet hates is when people who really have no interest in wildlife etc, go to a wildlife park become totally enthrawlled and begin to act like Steve Irwin. I have watched a million docu' about monkeys but it was enough to simply walk through and watch. It annoyed me that japanese tourists held out cigarretts to the monkeys and that for all intents and purposes the monkeys were not wild at all but due to the flocks of tourist and poor controll of them the nature and beuty of the forest had been spoiled. Realizing that the monkeys were tame the did play with us a little and one even jumped on Kim's head which was fun but although it was exciting I still feel it had been turned into a zoo.
We drove back stopping at surf outlets on the way, we were going to go to uluwatu but it got dark to soon. Now we are back in Kuta for our last day. I guess its gonna be a beach day along with buying souveneers and sorting our flights, my favourite sort of day...not! Here goes!
Thursday 2 July 2009
350000 ruppiah goes a long way!
350 000 Ruppiah goes along way here in Indonesia(about 20 quid)! Approximatley 500 miles! So we were in Flores and wanting to get back to Bali. Not wanting to spend money on air fair we decided to take local transport. In rhetrospect I can see how this was a big mistake but I also can see how great an experience it was and am glad we choose to do it this way.
To begin with we woke early and ate donuts from a local stall, packed our gear then headed down to the port to get the first ferry from Flores to Sumbawa. The ferry was due to leave at 10ish and bring us into Flores in the afternoon to catch our connecting bus at 7ish. When we arrived at the port we could here people hamering at the boat and although what they were doing seemed fruitless we guessed that the boat wasn't going anywhere fast. So we did what we did for the last few days...back to the restaurant! That avo we did emails etc and spent some time trying to find flip flops for James. We eventually found some which cost him about 60 pence. The same would cost ten times the price in a tourist area, it really is amazing how cheap things are when you pay the local price.
After marvelling at a truck with ramboo painted on the back we finally borded the ship at around 7 leaving at 8. We got a nice little spot at the front and were quickly surrounded by kids and locals staring at us in the usuall manner. I got some noodles which were fine then we chatted with some of the locals. Some of the kids were drinking Araq and after a while their nature became more and more annoying. I managed to nestle between the rucksacks and the floor and slept fairly well considering.
We arrived in Sumbawa at 3am but were not able to leave the boat till 6 so i continued to sleep. Leaving the boat we all felt failry rough. With minimal sleep and the usuall indonesian style ferry we were all in need of a rest but the journey had just really begun.
Walking into the port I saw a mini bus which I assumed was our transport. What didnt strike me at first was the Kiara was climbing on top of it. I imagined it was to help load bags but when the rest of the guys followed suit I realised our seats were on top of the bus. HMMM. So with no questions asked I climbed up and got a seat at the front of the bus. I had no where to hold onto so I was kind of sitting between James legs as one would do in the groovy train.
Sumbawa is the poorest island in Indonesia and it showed. Driving through we didnt really pass any developed town, it was all make shift shanty town type dwellings. The locals who had probably just roused from sleep were equally suprised to see 8 white people sitting on top of a bus and there were endless waves and laughs en route.
Travelling on top of that bus was of course not safe but it was a great experience and I guess Ive began to take it for granted that travelling here isnt safe so I wont complain.
The mini bus took us to a port in Sumbawa where after a commotion concerning baggage etc we were dropped at the locla bus depot. Of course due to the ferrys delay the whole journey had been delayed and we now had to wait 9hours for the pm bus. Frustrated we walked into town hitching a lift on some local guys truck, met Ian and had some lunch in a local eatery. James Kiara and Jarod braved the local cuisine which involed actually going into the kitcken and selecting your food. Kim and I decided to go for a pop mie (indonesian pot noodle) which worked well.
Walking back to our depot was eventfull. At first 2 trucks tore past us obviously racing and when one tried to cut up the inside he lost controll waked the kerb and to our amazement regained composure before carrying on, we were sure he would crash.
I noticed some locals fishing on the lake adjacent to the road so I went over to investigate. They didnt speak much english but they were pleased to see me and offered to let me fish with them. Soon the others joined and we spent an hour or so fishing for fish no larger than 2 inches.
We finally made it to the terminal and after some chat with the drunk bus terminal guy we got on our excecutive bus. It was indeed a nice bus, we all had a seat each which reclined and for all intents and purposes it was perfect. But O NO! A few minutes into the journey the guy behind me let out a huge burp which was gross. Amidst lafter and embarrasement we guessed it was a one of but after the 4th or 5th time we realised it was going to be a long journey. The burping continued, he insisted on putting his feet on my arm rest and sitting forward with his hands on my seat. Obviously I was livid as I wanted to sleep and was being kept awake by what I deemed as poor manners but I had to consider that he was probably doing nothing out of the ordinary for his cutlure so I held my tongue.
That night we travelled through the darkness hurtling along windey roads at untold speeds. The bus driver truely was a maniac and there were many many close calls but as mentioned I now take it for granted that travelling here is not safe so I tried my best not to think of it and sleep.
This was a wasted endeavour and eventually we arrived at the port for our next ferry. We took a 2 hour ferry to Lombok sitting on the roof of the ship. Im not sure we were allowed to do this but we were tired of being stared at I guess (especially the girls) so it was nice to lie down in peace.
After the ferry we travelled over land through Lombok. We stopped at a bus station mid journey where we received our lunch which was included in the ticket price. Following lunch as we waited to get on the bus which doors had jammed locking Jarod on boarded I decided I would treat myself to an ice cream. Some lady with a screaming kid had attracted the local vender over. I had tried to get one of him earlier but he told me he was out so I assumed he had restocked and hurried out to get one. He finished serving the lady and I pointed the the one I wanted. It was a mutli coloured one which I had had before and was 2400 ruppiah. He then responded by raising his hand and mouthing 5000 ruppiah. I was not about to haggle as the price was set so i pointed at the price and said 2400. At this stage he through up his hands said something in indonesian then hastily began to wheel his cart off. I called after him at this stage angry that he refused to serve me. Basically he wouldn't serve me cause I was white. James then told me he had tried to buy an ice cream off him earlier and he wouldnt serve him either. Sumbawa is highly muslim and this is the first and only time I have ever felt someone being racist towards me. It made me really angry and although it was only a small thing it made me appreciate what all those who have struggled to fight racism went through and the change that we all see as a result.
The journey carried on and after hours on the bus we made it to the port on the west side of Lombok.This was the port we originally arrived at when we came to Lombok that first night and it looked alot different in daylight. We boarded the ferry and after an hour or two trying to fix some problem we departed. The problem with the ferry was it was lop sided. It leant to the left and didnt seem to go straight. Mixed with large swell this proved for another interesting journey. This journey took 5 hours and on it I finished the Beach which was a great read. Arriving back in Bali though I felt like I was returning the hole I wanted so badly to get out of in the first place. We took a bmo from the station crammed 7 of us with surfboards and bags in and headed for Kuta.After an hour of trying to get accomo we split up and got seperate hotels. The places is packed with ozzies and is more like ibiza than south east asia. We had food , the others went out partying and I went to bed. Tired and dirty after 60 hours of tense travelling I was glad to get my head down and rest. Today I feel alive again and am ready for the next adventure this trip has to offer.
To begin with we woke early and ate donuts from a local stall, packed our gear then headed down to the port to get the first ferry from Flores to Sumbawa. The ferry was due to leave at 10ish and bring us into Flores in the afternoon to catch our connecting bus at 7ish. When we arrived at the port we could here people hamering at the boat and although what they were doing seemed fruitless we guessed that the boat wasn't going anywhere fast. So we did what we did for the last few days...back to the restaurant! That avo we did emails etc and spent some time trying to find flip flops for James. We eventually found some which cost him about 60 pence. The same would cost ten times the price in a tourist area, it really is amazing how cheap things are when you pay the local price.
After marvelling at a truck with ramboo painted on the back we finally borded the ship at around 7 leaving at 8. We got a nice little spot at the front and were quickly surrounded by kids and locals staring at us in the usuall manner. I got some noodles which were fine then we chatted with some of the locals. Some of the kids were drinking Araq and after a while their nature became more and more annoying. I managed to nestle between the rucksacks and the floor and slept fairly well considering.
We arrived in Sumbawa at 3am but were not able to leave the boat till 6 so i continued to sleep. Leaving the boat we all felt failry rough. With minimal sleep and the usuall indonesian style ferry we were all in need of a rest but the journey had just really begun.
Walking into the port I saw a mini bus which I assumed was our transport. What didnt strike me at first was the Kiara was climbing on top of it. I imagined it was to help load bags but when the rest of the guys followed suit I realised our seats were on top of the bus. HMMM. So with no questions asked I climbed up and got a seat at the front of the bus. I had no where to hold onto so I was kind of sitting between James legs as one would do in the groovy train.
Sumbawa is the poorest island in Indonesia and it showed. Driving through we didnt really pass any developed town, it was all make shift shanty town type dwellings. The locals who had probably just roused from sleep were equally suprised to see 8 white people sitting on top of a bus and there were endless waves and laughs en route.
Travelling on top of that bus was of course not safe but it was a great experience and I guess Ive began to take it for granted that travelling here isnt safe so I wont complain.
The mini bus took us to a port in Sumbawa where after a commotion concerning baggage etc we were dropped at the locla bus depot. Of course due to the ferrys delay the whole journey had been delayed and we now had to wait 9hours for the pm bus. Frustrated we walked into town hitching a lift on some local guys truck, met Ian and had some lunch in a local eatery. James Kiara and Jarod braved the local cuisine which involed actually going into the kitcken and selecting your food. Kim and I decided to go for a pop mie (indonesian pot noodle) which worked well.
Walking back to our depot was eventfull. At first 2 trucks tore past us obviously racing and when one tried to cut up the inside he lost controll waked the kerb and to our amazement regained composure before carrying on, we were sure he would crash.
I noticed some locals fishing on the lake adjacent to the road so I went over to investigate. They didnt speak much english but they were pleased to see me and offered to let me fish with them. Soon the others joined and we spent an hour or so fishing for fish no larger than 2 inches.
We finally made it to the terminal and after some chat with the drunk bus terminal guy we got on our excecutive bus. It was indeed a nice bus, we all had a seat each which reclined and for all intents and purposes it was perfect. But O NO! A few minutes into the journey the guy behind me let out a huge burp which was gross. Amidst lafter and embarrasement we guessed it was a one of but after the 4th or 5th time we realised it was going to be a long journey. The burping continued, he insisted on putting his feet on my arm rest and sitting forward with his hands on my seat. Obviously I was livid as I wanted to sleep and was being kept awake by what I deemed as poor manners but I had to consider that he was probably doing nothing out of the ordinary for his cutlure so I held my tongue.
That night we travelled through the darkness hurtling along windey roads at untold speeds. The bus driver truely was a maniac and there were many many close calls but as mentioned I now take it for granted that travelling here is not safe so I tried my best not to think of it and sleep.
This was a wasted endeavour and eventually we arrived at the port for our next ferry. We took a 2 hour ferry to Lombok sitting on the roof of the ship. Im not sure we were allowed to do this but we were tired of being stared at I guess (especially the girls) so it was nice to lie down in peace.
After the ferry we travelled over land through Lombok. We stopped at a bus station mid journey where we received our lunch which was included in the ticket price. Following lunch as we waited to get on the bus which doors had jammed locking Jarod on boarded I decided I would treat myself to an ice cream. Some lady with a screaming kid had attracted the local vender over. I had tried to get one of him earlier but he told me he was out so I assumed he had restocked and hurried out to get one. He finished serving the lady and I pointed the the one I wanted. It was a mutli coloured one which I had had before and was 2400 ruppiah. He then responded by raising his hand and mouthing 5000 ruppiah. I was not about to haggle as the price was set so i pointed at the price and said 2400. At this stage he through up his hands said something in indonesian then hastily began to wheel his cart off. I called after him at this stage angry that he refused to serve me. Basically he wouldn't serve me cause I was white. James then told me he had tried to buy an ice cream off him earlier and he wouldnt serve him either. Sumbawa is highly muslim and this is the first and only time I have ever felt someone being racist towards me. It made me really angry and although it was only a small thing it made me appreciate what all those who have struggled to fight racism went through and the change that we all see as a result.
The journey carried on and after hours on the bus we made it to the port on the west side of Lombok.This was the port we originally arrived at when we came to Lombok that first night and it looked alot different in daylight. We boarded the ferry and after an hour or two trying to fix some problem we departed. The problem with the ferry was it was lop sided. It leant to the left and didnt seem to go straight. Mixed with large swell this proved for another interesting journey. This journey took 5 hours and on it I finished the Beach which was a great read. Arriving back in Bali though I felt like I was returning the hole I wanted so badly to get out of in the first place. We took a bmo from the station crammed 7 of us with surfboards and bags in and headed for Kuta.After an hour of trying to get accomo we split up and got seperate hotels. The places is packed with ozzies and is more like ibiza than south east asia. We had food , the others went out partying and I went to bed. Tired and dirty after 60 hours of tense travelling I was glad to get my head down and rest. Today I feel alive again and am ready for the next adventure this trip has to offer.
Monday 29 June 2009
Labuanbajo
So we arrived in Flores at Labuanbajo. As mentioned it has a much more rustic feel here and hasn't been spoiled yet by tourists. Currently im reading the beach and i can understand the way the travelers feel in that. It seems most of the travel hotspots , thailand, australia etc etc have been ruined by 18 year olds looking for package adventure and holidays. Of course there is nothing wrong with this as I have done that myself and it is fun but the problem then comes when you want to move past this. Where do you look for something truely unexplored and untainted by western toursits. One of the things I like about the port here is that the locals still do the things I imagined the would have done hundreds of years ago. They fish!In the streets there is a foul stench of rotting and fresh fish alike being between the locals. To me it is a breath of fresh air and I hope long will it remain. It seems the fallout from young travellers has already spread from thailand to bali and in parts of lombok and it seems like it will continue to spread untill it reaches new guinea reaching australia. Hopefully this won't happen as the untouched regions I encounter are always my favourite and I feel privledged to have been there. Komodo was one of these suprises and I fear in ten more years it may be spoiled.
This brought up the topic of Papua and Papua New Guinea. I had read somewhere that the inner highlands of papua are some of the remaining unexplored areas of the world alongside parts of the African jungle and the Amazon. My dad mentioned that an SAS team tried to venture into Papua but got stuck in a valley or something, it may have been scare tactics but it interested me more.
Having met James and Jarod in particular both have an interest in reaching the unknown and who knows maybe in the next few years we will venture into the highlands and see what its all about. I hear however arachnid phobia was filmed there so we best be on guard!
Anyways yesterday we sat around planning to go to a whaling village where they still use traditional hunting methods (ie bamboo spears) to catch wales! We had heard through the grapevine that one could accompany them on hunting trips which appealed to us greatly. However the village was 200 km away which in Indonesia equates to at least 10 hours travel and alongside upset stomachs its not pleasant. Anyway we didn't have the time so we decided to sit in a local restaraunt literally all day, using their shower too and relax. The next day (today) we would get the boat. Of course it isn't working. It has broke down or something so we are no waiting for another boat to arrive so our 28 hour bus/boat journey to bali is not going to be 32 hours and the majority of which will now be at night. Goodtimes.
It wasnt all bad I guess and doing nothing gave us a little time to relax and although there was 3 of us jammed into our room last night, with no blankets but an abundance of mozzies I feel more rested and ready to take on the journey! Bon voyage!
This brought up the topic of Papua and Papua New Guinea. I had read somewhere that the inner highlands of papua are some of the remaining unexplored areas of the world alongside parts of the African jungle and the Amazon. My dad mentioned that an SAS team tried to venture into Papua but got stuck in a valley or something, it may have been scare tactics but it interested me more.
Having met James and Jarod in particular both have an interest in reaching the unknown and who knows maybe in the next few years we will venture into the highlands and see what its all about. I hear however arachnid phobia was filmed there so we best be on guard!
Anyways yesterday we sat around planning to go to a whaling village where they still use traditional hunting methods (ie bamboo spears) to catch wales! We had heard through the grapevine that one could accompany them on hunting trips which appealed to us greatly. However the village was 200 km away which in Indonesia equates to at least 10 hours travel and alongside upset stomachs its not pleasant. Anyway we didn't have the time so we decided to sit in a local restaraunt literally all day, using their shower too and relax. The next day (today) we would get the boat. Of course it isn't working. It has broke down or something so we are no waiting for another boat to arrive so our 28 hour bus/boat journey to bali is not going to be 32 hours and the majority of which will now be at night. Goodtimes.
It wasnt all bad I guess and doing nothing gave us a little time to relax and although there was 3 of us jammed into our room last night, with no blankets but an abundance of mozzies I feel more rested and ready to take on the journey! Bon voyage!
Sunday 28 June 2009
Komodo by boat!
We all decided that the Komodo trip was a good idea! The next morning we packed and left at 9ish before driving in an air conned bus to the port! The others were in a larger bus so we felt fairly privledged! En route we listened to some old classics. Lighthouse family, spice girls the top gun theme tune, all the classics time forgot!
After numerous stops we arrived at the harbour to see our boat. It seemed rather small for 18 or so people plus crew. Very small in fact and I couldnt work out were all the sleeping cabins were. Of course they didnt exist. Anyhow we set out with high spirits witnessing some pretty amazing views as we went.
That evening we sailed till dark. We anchored then had some food. I will wrap up the food for the 4 days now by noting that all we had was rice, noodles , vegetables 2 scrawny old chickens that had been living on board for a while and eggs mixed in with everything, presumably from the said chickens. So the food wasnt great.
That evening we all found somewhere to sleep. I was late in choosing so was resigned to a spot on the upper deck, (actually the roof of the boat with a sheet over it) at the front. This was good for numerous reasons. Firstly I pee alot in the night and if I was at the back it would have been a nightmare crawling through the 3 foot high space over sleeping bodies and secondly as I could clearly see the stars as the canopy ended right over my head, so at night I layed back watched the stars while floating comfortably back and forth.
At around 4am I heard a thunderous noise as the engines started. We were on the go an as I was still really tired from Rinjani had no problems sleeping again. That morning we had banana pancakes for breakfast which was nice. We then snorkelled for a bit. The toilet on the boat wasn't so much as a toilet as a hole. Basically if the boat was stationary it wasn't the best idea to go to the loo unless there was someone in the water you didnt like. As there wasnt I swam ashore and aquainted myself with nature.
Feeling better after breakfast etc we all went for a walk on the island to the waterfall. It was cool. Ive seen better in Hawaii but for any European it was impressive.
We set sail for what was goin to be a long night. Our itinerary noted that we would sail all day and through the night for about 13 hours. After dinner I felt a little sick so lay down on my little matt overlooking the deck and adjacent to the night sky. It felt comfortable and although the boat was rocking alot I began to feel less sick. After a few hours of light sleeping the boat began to get considerably more rocky. Its hard to paint a picture of this boat but it is sufficeth to say it would not pass European regulations. The sides were low, there were ropes for hand rails. People were littered all over the deck and roof and as far as I was aware was unseaworthy except for sailing between local islands. As we were heading a fare distance we were now as I calculated out on open water chop and at the mercy of the elements. After a while of heavy rocking the boat hit or rather dropped into a wave side on and everyone slide in unison on their matts. This is when people began to get worried I could tell. I had been awake for a while and was already aware of the increasingly dangerous situation but for those sleepers recently awoke they began to realise what was goin on. The couple behind me seemed to cling together and the next morning James told me that Himself and Ciara had got out of their sleeping bags and put on clothes in case we capsized. I sat up and held onto the mast beside where I was sleeping. We could no longer see the lights of the fishing boats which usually look like a little village of the shore. I couldnt see any lights from land. There was some sort of sail hoisted at the front of the boat even though we have a motor and all the lights were off, i assumed the captain was using the stars. As the boat pumelled through the swell each splash made by its hull illuminated the side of the boat with the phosphorescent algi.
It is easy to look back and laugh at this experience as we all did but it was at this stage that I was genuinley worried. Our little boat was being smashed by the waves and in all honesty it seemed inevidable that we would capsize. There is no way we can make it through this I thought. I turned my phone on so that I could send a text or ring home just to let them know what was going on but of course there was no signal.
I really cant describe how I felt that night. Thousands of miles from home, in the middle of the Indian ocean on some rickety sciff plowing through huge swell in complete darkness bar the moon and although with new friends it would have been a very lonley way to go. At times like that I guess thats when faith etc comes into play. When you realise you are literally helpless over your fate it makes one wander what its all about.
Whether faith plays a part or whether the seas calmed themselves after a while it seemed the waters flattened and we were back to usuall. I felt at ease and soon drifted to sleep knowing that we would be fine.
The next morning we all woke and laughed about what had happened though in the back of my mind I knew just how serious something like that could be.
We awoke in a bay near komodo. We climbed a hill nearby to witness some spectacular views over the islands. After breakfast we ploughed on heading for Komodo. We arrived soon after lunch. As we entered the bay and saw the gates to the park I felt great that we had made it in one piece. As I climbed of the boat and onto the wooden harbour it felt good to be on dry land again. Walking through the gates I couldnt help but hum the jurassic park theme tune in my head. This tune remained through most of the trip and even through the next day on rinca. This really is as close as one can get to walking with dinasours i think. We met our guide and began walking on foor through the prehistoric park. The fauna etc was all in tune with the Jurassic park type setting now all we needed were the dragons....and then, there it was. Reaching outstretched up a tree trying to grab a piece of goatmeat was my first glimpse of a Komodo dragon. Those reading this know I enjoy a good documentary and over the years ive watched many about the Komodo dragons. I was not dissapointed in every way it lived up to expections and more. Seeing this huge lizard in its natural habit was something I could never have expected of this trip and is something I will never forget.
The walk through the park was impressive and after I gorged on a club sandwhich chips and 3 fantas! Those who have travelled in less developed countries know that like a camel one must consume as much good food as possible when it is available! That evening we sailed briefly to a local bay were we retired for the night. In the mangrove swamps we noticed some large blackbirds nesting and flying around. It was strange however that when they landed the hung upside down! Yes they were not birds. Flying foxes or giant fruit bats! One of the crew took James and I out on the little canoe for a closer look and it was genuinley incredible. They were huge. About the size of a rats body but with wings like a bird, we were so close we could see the bone structure and features of the wing. That evening we played cards and relaxed all in high spirits.
The boat did not sail that night so I personally slept soundly. In the morning we began our voyage to Rinca island were some of the larger dragons live. It is worth noting I finished Orwells Burmese days. It was a great read however I was desperatley dissapointed with the ending, poor Flory.
We arrived at Rinca a few hours later. In Komodo we only saw one dragon but while sailing to Rinca we saw a huge one walking across the beach. Entering the park walking across the dry lake we saw another large dragon, i knew we were in for a treat. That day we saw numerous big dragons but the highlight was when we saw a buffalo the dragons had bit. They dont kill prey like water buffalo straight away, they bite them then the bacteria and poisens fester in their blood causing sceptis and death, I guess i empathised with the bufallo knowing how poorly he must have felt! He though had greater worry than I ever had. It takes around 3 days for the poisen to kill a buffalo and with a huge festering bulge on its backside it was imminent he would soon collapse. Waiting on guard were 4 large dragons ready to maul the beast. The buffalo looked helpless although one of his friends it seemed had stayed with him which I though was very humane! At one stage we seemed trapped between the bufallos angry friend and the 4 dragons although our guides soon managed to get us safe.
It strikes me that many of the practises in Indonesia are just not safe although i suppose this is expected in any south east asian country.
We finished up our trek and headed back to the boat. I genuinley felt a sense of contentment after witnessing such an amazing spectacle. I was impressed that the islands are relativley untouched with only a few intrepid travllers prepared to make the 4 day boat trip ( or wealthy familys with luxuary yaughts) being able to access the islands. Long may it remain i hope.
After we sailed to a desert island and snorkelled. Here I found some cool shells amongst the dead coral. Following which we sailed to the island of Flores. Arriving here felt like arriving in aport in the early 20th century. It is much less developed than Bali etc and has a nice feel to it. We will spend the next few days here. This is the place were the found that new species of human known as the hobbit so hopefully we will have an interesting time.
The last 4 days have been scary, exciting, relaxing and untterly memorable, truely this is another memory that will last longer than the feeble cost ever could.
After numerous stops we arrived at the harbour to see our boat. It seemed rather small for 18 or so people plus crew. Very small in fact and I couldnt work out were all the sleeping cabins were. Of course they didnt exist. Anyhow we set out with high spirits witnessing some pretty amazing views as we went.
That evening we sailed till dark. We anchored then had some food. I will wrap up the food for the 4 days now by noting that all we had was rice, noodles , vegetables 2 scrawny old chickens that had been living on board for a while and eggs mixed in with everything, presumably from the said chickens. So the food wasnt great.
That evening we all found somewhere to sleep. I was late in choosing so was resigned to a spot on the upper deck, (actually the roof of the boat with a sheet over it) at the front. This was good for numerous reasons. Firstly I pee alot in the night and if I was at the back it would have been a nightmare crawling through the 3 foot high space over sleeping bodies and secondly as I could clearly see the stars as the canopy ended right over my head, so at night I layed back watched the stars while floating comfortably back and forth.
At around 4am I heard a thunderous noise as the engines started. We were on the go an as I was still really tired from Rinjani had no problems sleeping again. That morning we had banana pancakes for breakfast which was nice. We then snorkelled for a bit. The toilet on the boat wasn't so much as a toilet as a hole. Basically if the boat was stationary it wasn't the best idea to go to the loo unless there was someone in the water you didnt like. As there wasnt I swam ashore and aquainted myself with nature.
Feeling better after breakfast etc we all went for a walk on the island to the waterfall. It was cool. Ive seen better in Hawaii but for any European it was impressive.
We set sail for what was goin to be a long night. Our itinerary noted that we would sail all day and through the night for about 13 hours. After dinner I felt a little sick so lay down on my little matt overlooking the deck and adjacent to the night sky. It felt comfortable and although the boat was rocking alot I began to feel less sick. After a few hours of light sleeping the boat began to get considerably more rocky. Its hard to paint a picture of this boat but it is sufficeth to say it would not pass European regulations. The sides were low, there were ropes for hand rails. People were littered all over the deck and roof and as far as I was aware was unseaworthy except for sailing between local islands. As we were heading a fare distance we were now as I calculated out on open water chop and at the mercy of the elements. After a while of heavy rocking the boat hit or rather dropped into a wave side on and everyone slide in unison on their matts. This is when people began to get worried I could tell. I had been awake for a while and was already aware of the increasingly dangerous situation but for those sleepers recently awoke they began to realise what was goin on. The couple behind me seemed to cling together and the next morning James told me that Himself and Ciara had got out of their sleeping bags and put on clothes in case we capsized. I sat up and held onto the mast beside where I was sleeping. We could no longer see the lights of the fishing boats which usually look like a little village of the shore. I couldnt see any lights from land. There was some sort of sail hoisted at the front of the boat even though we have a motor and all the lights were off, i assumed the captain was using the stars. As the boat pumelled through the swell each splash made by its hull illuminated the side of the boat with the phosphorescent algi.
It is easy to look back and laugh at this experience as we all did but it was at this stage that I was genuinley worried. Our little boat was being smashed by the waves and in all honesty it seemed inevidable that we would capsize. There is no way we can make it through this I thought. I turned my phone on so that I could send a text or ring home just to let them know what was going on but of course there was no signal.
I really cant describe how I felt that night. Thousands of miles from home, in the middle of the Indian ocean on some rickety sciff plowing through huge swell in complete darkness bar the moon and although with new friends it would have been a very lonley way to go. At times like that I guess thats when faith etc comes into play. When you realise you are literally helpless over your fate it makes one wander what its all about.
Whether faith plays a part or whether the seas calmed themselves after a while it seemed the waters flattened and we were back to usuall. I felt at ease and soon drifted to sleep knowing that we would be fine.
The next morning we all woke and laughed about what had happened though in the back of my mind I knew just how serious something like that could be.
We awoke in a bay near komodo. We climbed a hill nearby to witness some spectacular views over the islands. After breakfast we ploughed on heading for Komodo. We arrived soon after lunch. As we entered the bay and saw the gates to the park I felt great that we had made it in one piece. As I climbed of the boat and onto the wooden harbour it felt good to be on dry land again. Walking through the gates I couldnt help but hum the jurassic park theme tune in my head. This tune remained through most of the trip and even through the next day on rinca. This really is as close as one can get to walking with dinasours i think. We met our guide and began walking on foor through the prehistoric park. The fauna etc was all in tune with the Jurassic park type setting now all we needed were the dragons....and then, there it was. Reaching outstretched up a tree trying to grab a piece of goatmeat was my first glimpse of a Komodo dragon. Those reading this know I enjoy a good documentary and over the years ive watched many about the Komodo dragons. I was not dissapointed in every way it lived up to expections and more. Seeing this huge lizard in its natural habit was something I could never have expected of this trip and is something I will never forget.
The walk through the park was impressive and after I gorged on a club sandwhich chips and 3 fantas! Those who have travelled in less developed countries know that like a camel one must consume as much good food as possible when it is available! That evening we sailed briefly to a local bay were we retired for the night. In the mangrove swamps we noticed some large blackbirds nesting and flying around. It was strange however that when they landed the hung upside down! Yes they were not birds. Flying foxes or giant fruit bats! One of the crew took James and I out on the little canoe for a closer look and it was genuinley incredible. They were huge. About the size of a rats body but with wings like a bird, we were so close we could see the bone structure and features of the wing. That evening we played cards and relaxed all in high spirits.
The boat did not sail that night so I personally slept soundly. In the morning we began our voyage to Rinca island were some of the larger dragons live. It is worth noting I finished Orwells Burmese days. It was a great read however I was desperatley dissapointed with the ending, poor Flory.
We arrived at Rinca a few hours later. In Komodo we only saw one dragon but while sailing to Rinca we saw a huge one walking across the beach. Entering the park walking across the dry lake we saw another large dragon, i knew we were in for a treat. That day we saw numerous big dragons but the highlight was when we saw a buffalo the dragons had bit. They dont kill prey like water buffalo straight away, they bite them then the bacteria and poisens fester in their blood causing sceptis and death, I guess i empathised with the bufallo knowing how poorly he must have felt! He though had greater worry than I ever had. It takes around 3 days for the poisen to kill a buffalo and with a huge festering bulge on its backside it was imminent he would soon collapse. Waiting on guard were 4 large dragons ready to maul the beast. The buffalo looked helpless although one of his friends it seemed had stayed with him which I though was very humane! At one stage we seemed trapped between the bufallos angry friend and the 4 dragons although our guides soon managed to get us safe.
It strikes me that many of the practises in Indonesia are just not safe although i suppose this is expected in any south east asian country.
We finished up our trek and headed back to the boat. I genuinley felt a sense of contentment after witnessing such an amazing spectacle. I was impressed that the islands are relativley untouched with only a few intrepid travllers prepared to make the 4 day boat trip ( or wealthy familys with luxuary yaughts) being able to access the islands. Long may it remain i hope.
After we sailed to a desert island and snorkelled. Here I found some cool shells amongst the dead coral. Following which we sailed to the island of Flores. Arriving here felt like arriving in aport in the early 20th century. It is much less developed than Bali etc and has a nice feel to it. We will spend the next few days here. This is the place were the found that new species of human known as the hobbit so hopefully we will have an interesting time.
The last 4 days have been scary, exciting, relaxing and untterly memorable, truely this is another memory that will last longer than the feeble cost ever could.
Wednesday 24 June 2009
To Mordor and back
So we decided to go to Rinjani , a local volcanoe which is about 3000 metres or so. Currently one cannot reach the summit due to the volcanic activity which begs the question why can we climb it at all? Anyhow we agreed a price of 55000 ruppiah each about 35 quid and hired porters and a guide for the trip.
We spent the night again in Hotel Ellen in Singigi! As Jarrod says if we were to write in the lonley planet about this place we would write, "do not go"! Actually it is ok!
Hotel Ellen is fine, it is right beside the mosque which I really have grown acustom too. There is a decent left and right surf break but when we checked it was at low tide and too shallow to surf. Some local checked it out before us and ended up tearing out a fin. James and I chilled at the beach talking to him and some local girls who were cool. I now have serious Bali belly so ran back to the hotel. While away James met and iraqi refuge and his family who were trying to get to Oz but to no avail.
That evening we ate food at the same restaurant as before, i had king prawns again which were awsome. We went to bed promptly as we had an early start.
From the outset I knew it was going to be a disaster, in a good way though! 4.30AM wake up was my least favourite! We even missed the morning prayers at the mosque. They really are fascinating! These people pray like 6 times a day and begin at 5AM. One person sings the Koran through a microphone I guess and listening to it in the warmth of the dark night is nothing less than enchanting. I think I could take a leaf out of these guys dedictation!
Anyways we drove 2 and a half hours to the starting point. Enroute I felt illish but i managed to sleep a little. We began trekking and as we set out we saw a large milipeed on the road which was cool. To cut a long story short the trek was hellish! In the jungle it was super humid so i was sweating like a mad man then through the clouds we couldnt see anything and as we passed over the clouds the sun burned us and the terrain became pretty tricky. I am really not fit and i struggled. Parts of it were very like Kilimanjaro notably the cloudforest and passing into scrubland.
When we finally reached the rim we heard what only can be described as the noised jumbo jet engines make prior to take of. In the centre of the volcano there was a new dome which had formed and out which lava and smoke were spewing. It was literally incredible although nothing compared to when the sun went down. The sunset was as good as any but as the light faded the lava grew more intense and as we sat watching the volcano errupt in the crater below us i really could have saw Gollum and not been suprised. We watched the volcano for about and hour then got into our tents.
Sleeping was nigh impossible for me it was cold, some guy from the UN was snorring and the volcanoe sounded like thunder. After a few hours of not sleeping I left the tent to go to the toilet which acording to our guide was everywhere...Finding a good spot to pee i noticed further up the mountain was our guide and porters. No tent just sleeping bag. He was playing some sort of stringed instrument overlooking the crater. No lie that was one of the most memorable pee's ever. I cant find words to describe it really but standing on the crater watching lava spew while a local indonesian man plays his guitar or whatever it was is a moment that will stay with me forever! Im glad I drank so much water!
That night i did not sleep and in the morning we had a frugal breakfast before descending the mountain. The descent was tricky and just like kili as the sun rose and the air warmed i felt alive once more. It is notable that now i have the runs, so the descent was not nice! At least kili had toilets!
After hours of trekking Sophia (Morrocan) Anabel , Mathew (french) and I all made it back to the starting point. We were haggered and celebrated with cheese and tomatoe toast and chips! Glorius! We took our bus/van back to Singigi. En route the guy from the UN shared some storied with us about his time in Iraq and other dissaster stricked parts of the world. His stories were humbling and at times frightening. As we discussed the dangers of driving in Iraq etc some american chick chirped up to inform us that driving in Indo is safe and that it is organised chaos. Literally just as she said this a scooter coming round the corner hit sand and literally missed our truck/death by inches. I smiled inside and resisted calling her a jackass.
Anyways we are back in Singigi! Hotel Ellen is full so we are in some dodgyu hotel in a back alley. It has barbed wire and metal bars on the window so i hope it is safe.
Its no lie i actually stink right now! I havent showered since the trek and hours of jungle sweat have caught up with me, time to shower and sleep!
The last 2 days have been crazy, i can barley remember half of the goings on. Tommorow we leave at 9. We have organised a boat to take us to the komodo islands 4 days away to see the dragons. After which we will explore more eastern and untouched parts of Indonesia.
We spent the night again in Hotel Ellen in Singigi! As Jarrod says if we were to write in the lonley planet about this place we would write, "do not go"! Actually it is ok!
Hotel Ellen is fine, it is right beside the mosque which I really have grown acustom too. There is a decent left and right surf break but when we checked it was at low tide and too shallow to surf. Some local checked it out before us and ended up tearing out a fin. James and I chilled at the beach talking to him and some local girls who were cool. I now have serious Bali belly so ran back to the hotel. While away James met and iraqi refuge and his family who were trying to get to Oz but to no avail.
That evening we ate food at the same restaurant as before, i had king prawns again which were awsome. We went to bed promptly as we had an early start.
From the outset I knew it was going to be a disaster, in a good way though! 4.30AM wake up was my least favourite! We even missed the morning prayers at the mosque. They really are fascinating! These people pray like 6 times a day and begin at 5AM. One person sings the Koran through a microphone I guess and listening to it in the warmth of the dark night is nothing less than enchanting. I think I could take a leaf out of these guys dedictation!
Anyways we drove 2 and a half hours to the starting point. Enroute I felt illish but i managed to sleep a little. We began trekking and as we set out we saw a large milipeed on the road which was cool. To cut a long story short the trek was hellish! In the jungle it was super humid so i was sweating like a mad man then through the clouds we couldnt see anything and as we passed over the clouds the sun burned us and the terrain became pretty tricky. I am really not fit and i struggled. Parts of it were very like Kilimanjaro notably the cloudforest and passing into scrubland.
When we finally reached the rim we heard what only can be described as the noised jumbo jet engines make prior to take of. In the centre of the volcano there was a new dome which had formed and out which lava and smoke were spewing. It was literally incredible although nothing compared to when the sun went down. The sunset was as good as any but as the light faded the lava grew more intense and as we sat watching the volcano errupt in the crater below us i really could have saw Gollum and not been suprised. We watched the volcano for about and hour then got into our tents.
Sleeping was nigh impossible for me it was cold, some guy from the UN was snorring and the volcanoe sounded like thunder. After a few hours of not sleeping I left the tent to go to the toilet which acording to our guide was everywhere...Finding a good spot to pee i noticed further up the mountain was our guide and porters. No tent just sleeping bag. He was playing some sort of stringed instrument overlooking the crater. No lie that was one of the most memorable pee's ever. I cant find words to describe it really but standing on the crater watching lava spew while a local indonesian man plays his guitar or whatever it was is a moment that will stay with me forever! Im glad I drank so much water!
That night i did not sleep and in the morning we had a frugal breakfast before descending the mountain. The descent was tricky and just like kili as the sun rose and the air warmed i felt alive once more. It is notable that now i have the runs, so the descent was not nice! At least kili had toilets!
After hours of trekking Sophia (Morrocan) Anabel , Mathew (french) and I all made it back to the starting point. We were haggered and celebrated with cheese and tomatoe toast and chips! Glorius! We took our bus/van back to Singigi. En route the guy from the UN shared some storied with us about his time in Iraq and other dissaster stricked parts of the world. His stories were humbling and at times frightening. As we discussed the dangers of driving in Iraq etc some american chick chirped up to inform us that driving in Indo is safe and that it is organised chaos. Literally just as she said this a scooter coming round the corner hit sand and literally missed our truck/death by inches. I smiled inside and resisted calling her a jackass.
Anyways we are back in Singigi! Hotel Ellen is full so we are in some dodgyu hotel in a back alley. It has barbed wire and metal bars on the window so i hope it is safe.
Its no lie i actually stink right now! I havent showered since the trek and hours of jungle sweat have caught up with me, time to shower and sleep!
The last 2 days have been crazy, i can barley remember half of the goings on. Tommorow we leave at 9. We have organised a boat to take us to the komodo islands 4 days away to see the dragons. After which we will explore more eastern and untouched parts of Indonesia.
Sunday 21 June 2009
You can kill 2 birds with one stone!
The next few day on the Gilis were pretty relaxing. We slept in, had breakfast and lay in the hamock. Im reading Geore Orwells burmese days at the moment and although im not in burma i still think its apt considering im in south east Asia.
After breakfast etc as usuall i walked out of the hotel onto the beach. It literally is paradise I half expect to see Peter Andre singing mysterious girl in the water. Thjs evening we watched Slumdog millionaire in the open air cinema then watched the lions match. I really thought we had it in the last 5 mins.
Today I woke up later than the rest of the guys so met them at the beach. We were sitting outside one of the really posh resorts (ie 40 dollars a night not 6) . Ciara was on the beach while James and Jarod were snorkelling. Unbeknown to me at first the had a spear gun. Afer a while they both stood up in the water and with someting slithering the began to walk towards shore. Whatever it was was pretty big and when James stepped out of the water i immediatley recognised that the beak of the fish belonged to the parrot fish. This is not a good fish to eat! The spear was right through the head and the poor thing was slithering around. James wanted to gut it in front of the horrified tourists but we convinced him to take it to the man who gave him the gun. However knowing it was uneadible and affeered of the grief the locals would give them James released the beast back into the water. It seemed to have some fight in it but im sure it was quickly picked up by the reef sharks. Ciara and I both felt upset at the waste and as a consequence there was a bad air in camp that morning.
After lunch and as we still had the gun we rented a boat to take us hunting. This is when the miracle happened. Chuck Norris would be proud. Yes ladies and gentlemen i got 2 fish with one shot! Who ever thought it could happen. Not me! Not monsters just little black reef fish the locals would eat but I was still chuffed t0 get them. We got 5 in total and just swimming with the fish and turtles was satisfactory enough.
Last night we had food in a more local eatery.It wasnt great but we spent some time with the locals and planned our trip back to Lombok. The next morning we packed and left early arriving in Sengigi at midday. Now its time to try organise some porters to take us up the volcanoe. Its currently active so we need to be carefull but it should be fun. Apparently there is a surf break nearby so we will probably have a surf before tea!
After breakfast etc as usuall i walked out of the hotel onto the beach. It literally is paradise I half expect to see Peter Andre singing mysterious girl in the water. Thjs evening we watched Slumdog millionaire in the open air cinema then watched the lions match. I really thought we had it in the last 5 mins.
Today I woke up later than the rest of the guys so met them at the beach. We were sitting outside one of the really posh resorts (ie 40 dollars a night not 6) . Ciara was on the beach while James and Jarod were snorkelling. Unbeknown to me at first the had a spear gun. Afer a while they both stood up in the water and with someting slithering the began to walk towards shore. Whatever it was was pretty big and when James stepped out of the water i immediatley recognised that the beak of the fish belonged to the parrot fish. This is not a good fish to eat! The spear was right through the head and the poor thing was slithering around. James wanted to gut it in front of the horrified tourists but we convinced him to take it to the man who gave him the gun. However knowing it was uneadible and affeered of the grief the locals would give them James released the beast back into the water. It seemed to have some fight in it but im sure it was quickly picked up by the reef sharks. Ciara and I both felt upset at the waste and as a consequence there was a bad air in camp that morning.
After lunch and as we still had the gun we rented a boat to take us hunting. This is when the miracle happened. Chuck Norris would be proud. Yes ladies and gentlemen i got 2 fish with one shot! Who ever thought it could happen. Not me! Not monsters just little black reef fish the locals would eat but I was still chuffed t0 get them. We got 5 in total and just swimming with the fish and turtles was satisfactory enough.
Last night we had food in a more local eatery.It wasnt great but we spent some time with the locals and planned our trip back to Lombok. The next morning we packed and left early arriving in Sengigi at midday. Now its time to try organise some porters to take us up the volcanoe. Its currently active so we need to be carefull but it should be fun. Apparently there is a surf break nearby so we will probably have a surf before tea!
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